Couture Finishes

Ginny presented a wonderful hands-on session today on various finishes she uses. Each adds just the right couture and artful touch.

First up was the hand under-stitch, just right for the perfect rounded neckline. She used the Susan Khalje technique. Although it requires a little finesse, the results are just lovely.

Next up were bias tubes. Here Ginny applied the Ann Williamson technique. With the added Ginny-original touches, the results are perfect each time. She also showed us a very pretty way to finish the ends with waxed thread.

Speaking of waxed thread, that was Ginny's main take-away.

After a terrific Show 'N' Tell, Ginny shows us her fabulous method for making gorgeous Monk's cord. I have uploaded a video to drop box. Hope you can see it.

If the above link does not work, try this one.

And here are pictures from the rest of her presentation:

Note all the couture details: the pick stitch along the front and sleeve cuffs, as well as the hand-made monk's cord with embedded garnet beads.

Used for making monk's cord - an old-fashioned screw driver

Above and below: samples of hand-made monk's cord

Show and Tell:

Couture Steps

In August our featured teacher was Martina. Here topic was awe-inspiring and maybe even a little daunting: “Couture Steps from pattern to finishing details." Martina did a wonderful job and left us wanting more.

The presentation started with a review of the definition of *couture* in the US, as well as an interesting contrast with the definition used in France. 

She brought in collectors' dolls with couture-styled garments. And she circulated tons of samples showing various couture techniques. 

Because of the size of this topic, Martina did not teach us the actual techniques but she certainly motivated their use, showing the lovely results.

Thanks so much, Martin. It left us breathless!

Some of Martina's beautifully constructed garments.

Martina!

Our leader looks gorgeous in this color!

Couture doll collection

A few of the samples:

One Pattern, Many Ways

Today Lorraine presented *One Pattern, Many Ways* during our regular July meeting.

She focused on Nancy Erickson's jacket pattern 1945 ,as well as Peggy Sagers' Mani's Blouse pattern. And she provided many, many ideas for how best to use the patterns you have, especially if fit is challenging.

Lorraine recommends that you buy patterns, but mostly for the details. For perfect fit, don't go back to the drawing board for each and every pattern. Rather, use these TNT patterns and add the new details.

In addition, Lorraine provided an excellent hand-out with numerous resources.

Last, but definitely not least, she demonstrated the concepts with her own beautifully sewn garments.

Many thanks to Lorraine!

And, as always, we had a great show n tell session.

Color with Barbara

Jacket detail

During our September meeting, Barbara took us on a journey of color with many lovely visuals, as well as color theory. Many thanks to Barbara!

shows mostly warm colors with a touch of cool

batik jacket

Barbara's jackets

Barbara showing the importance of value

batik jacket

B&W jacket

batik, embellished with various threads

tapestry jacket

batik border print

Couture Hand Stitching

In May, several members taught a workshop on couture hand stitching. The hand stitching techniques included: Catch Stitch, Slip Stitch, Half Back Stitch, Tailor Tacks, Covered Snaps.


Each member completed a sample like this one. The catch stitch is used to attach the raw edges of facings and interfacing to the wrong side of the garment, hems for stretchy fabrics like knits and secure pleats or tucks in linings. See this YouTube video for instructions .








The slip stitch is used to hem, attach linings and hold pockets in place. Use this stitch when you want a finish that is almost invisible. See this YouTube video for instructions.








The half back stitch is a very strong stitch and can be used for almost any seam. On the right side of the fabric, the half back stitch looks like a running stitch or machine stitch however on the wrong side, the stitches overlap. I couldn't find a video for half back stitch but here's a YouTube video of the BACK stitch. The half back stitch is the back stitch only with a smaller stitch length.






Tailor tacks are used to mark fabric where other marking techniques would permanently mar the fabric like silks, velvets, or tweeds. Use basting thread like this Cotton Basting Thread or this Japanese Basting Thread. The Otis Fashion Senior Studio video on YouTube is excellent. If you don't want to watch the whole video skip ahead to 3:14 minutes to 3:46 minutes to see how to sew tailor tacks then skip ahead to 4:20 minutes to 4:30 to see how to cut tailor tacks. Here's another YouTube video on making tailor tacks. This video doesn't have sound.



Covered snaps are used when you want to minimize the appearance of snaps. Use lining fabric or some other thin fabric to cover snaps. I covered the bottom of the snap only. Sorry, I couldn't find a YouTube video for this. I did find these instructions from New Mexico State University - scroll down the page to figure 9.








This was my first attempt and hand stitching in a long time so my stitches are not perfect. The stitches are not hard and instructions can be found in any good book on sewing. My advice to members who want to learn couture hand stitching...Practice, Practice, Practice.